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Choosing the Right Product for Your Hair

One walk down the hair care aisle of the grocery store and you’ll literally see hundreds of different shampoos and conditioners and styling products for men. The professional side of the market is just as saturated. Which shampoo and conditioner do you choose? In this guide to men’s shampoo and conditioner, I’ll explain the basics and try to help you chose the product that is right for you.

SHAMPOOS

There are several common types of shampoo. Because most men have hair that is less than three inches long, most “normal” shampoos will work for the average guy. When choosing a shampoo, select one that specifically targets problems you are having with your scalp — dryness, oiliness, etc.

Shampoos for normal hair won’t strip natural oils from the hair and scalp as they are typically gentle. This type of shampoo works well for about nine out of every ten guys.

Shampoos for oily hair contain cleansers designed to remove as much oil as possible. These are good for men with oily scalps, but may cause excessive dryness in men with a normal scalp.

Shampoos for dry hair (often called moisturizing shampoos) are specifically formulated to add moisture to the hair and scalp. Unless you have very dry hair, these types of shampoos are not necessary and can often weigh down normal hair.

Thickening shampoos (or volumizing shampoos) often contain glycerine, which helps the hair retain water and swells the hair strand by lifting the cuticle. The hair’s cuticle is a hard shingle-like layer that looks like fish scales under magnification. Under normal circumstances, these shingles lie flat. Many thickening shampoos cause the cuticle to open up, thus swelling the hair shaft. In this state, the hair is more vulnerable, so following up with a good conditioner is recommended.

Dandruff shampoos are formulated to help prevent the itching and flaking associated with dandruff. Before using a dandruff shampoo, make sure you really have dandruff. Dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis) causes thick flakes and irritated scalp. If you’re seeing smaller, fine white flakes, the problem is likely dry scalp which can be corrected with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Start by using a dandruff shampoo every other day (alternating with a good moisturizing shampoo) as dandruff shampoos can often cause excessive dryness.

Clarifying shampoos have a higher acid content and are formulated to remove excessive buildup of styling products in the hair. Swimmers may also use a clarifying shampoo to remove chemicals left in the hair by pool water. Avoid using this type of shampoo more than once per month as the elevated acid content can cause dryness and damage.

Most shampoos can be used every day. In the shower, simply apply a small amount to the palm of your hand and rub hands together to distribute the product. Very gently massage the shampoo into the hair and scalp with your fingertips and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

CONDITIONERS

Conditioners are designed to add moisture to the hair and scalp, soften the hair, increase luster and prevent tangling. Commonly formulated with silicone or fatty alcohols, modern conditioners accomplish these tasks without feeling greasy or heavy. Think of a hair conditioner as fabric softener for your hair.

Moisturizing conditioners contain ingredients that help the hair retain moisture and should be used by those with dry, curly, or coarse hair. If your hair is extremely dry, use a conditioner that contains essential fatty acids. These EFA based conditioners contain oil similar to sebum, which the scalp naturally produces.

Thickening conditioners (or volumizing conditioners) coat the hair with a layer of protein with makes the hair appear thicker. This type of conditioner can help fill in the gaps left in the cuticle if it is damaged and add smoothness and shine to the hair. Thickening conditioners are suitable for those with fine, limp, or damaged hair.

Leave in conditioners work, much like a facial moisturizer, by nourishing your hair. These types of conditioners are not rinsed out and can also help add a bit of manageability to the hair as well as protecting it from the sun (look for one with a sunscreen). Many guys believe their hair behaves better the day after a shampoo and a leave in conditioner can give the same manageability while allowing you to shampoo every day.

Most conditioners can be used every day. For maximum benefit, leave the conditioner on the hair for two minutes (this is a good time to shave your face) and be sure to rinse well with lukewarm water.

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Shampoo is meant to remove dirt, sebum (a.k.a. oils), and product buildup from your hair. But there are dozens of different brands to choose from, and even more types within those brands. The same goes for conditioners. Conditioners are meant to add shine, protect hair from drying out and allow for easier combing. Here, we run down the best shampoos and conditioners for four different hair types.

1. Coarse, curly hair Curly hair is almost always dry hair and here’s why: Oils produced in the scalp don’t travel as easily down the hair shaft as they do with straight hair. We’ve found creamy, moisturizing shampoos work best for this hair texture. Look for wheat germ oil, shea butter and nut oils (macadamia, for example) in your shampoos. These tend to coat the hair shaft, trapping water inside. Conditioners: More than any other hair type, women with coarse, curly hair must condition every time they shampoo. Look for an ultra-moisturizing conditioner made especially for coarse hair. Once a month use a hot oil treatment. For extra-dry hair, use an intense moisturizing treatment every 2 weeks.

   Extra tip: Curly hair should not be washed every day. You’ll only dehydrate hair and make it more frizzy and unmanageable. Another alternative to shampoo washings is to rinse the hair with water and then follow with a conditioner. Also, lay off the blow dryer (they tend to dry out hair even more) and let curls dry naturally.

2. Fine, oily, or limp hair Fine hair is most susceptible to looking ‘oily’ and can get this way after only one day. Opt for clear shampoos and stay away from the creamy ones that were made for your curlier sisters. You want a gentle shampoo marked for daily or frequent washing. The secret fine hair shampoo lies in a bodybuilding ingredient called panthenol. Hair experts swear that panthenol penetrates the hair cuticle making each strand thicker. Another tip: Use a dry shampoo or talcum powder between washings. Not only will the powder soak up oils, but it adds body as well. Conditioners: Not all limp-haired ladies need conditioners. If you find you can easily comb out hair after washings without a conditioner you can skip it. Conditioners are good for combing out fine hair. Just don’t let the product touch your scalp. Massage a light-weight conditioner from mid-shaft down and no need to leave it on for long. If you have extremely greasy hair, look for the oil-absorbing tea-tree oil in your conditioner.

   Extra tip: Consider using a spray conditioner. They tend to be more light-weight and therefore don’t weigh the hair down. Also, unless your hair is extra-oily, there’s no need to ‘rinse and repeat.’ One shampoo will do you. You don’t have to lather twice.

3. Processed hair Adding moisture is key for colored, permed and relaxed hair. Unfortunately, overly-processed hair can suffer from oily roots but dry shaft and ends. Therefore, washing processed hair can be tricky business. You want to cleanse the roots while moisturizing the ends. We suggest washing hair every other day with a shampoo made for normal hair. Concentrate on cleaning the scalp. Then use a strong conditioner only on the midshaft to ends of hair. Here are other shampoo tips for the following processed hair types:
   • Colored. Hair experts swear color-protection shampoos contain gentle cleansers and ingredients that preserve color. Other experts suggest shampoos for colored hair are just another way for companies to make money off you. They suggest using a gentle cleanser such as baby shampoo instead of the pricey specialized shampoos. We say: Whatever works for you. Don’t mind paying for the fancy stuff? Then do it. If you like it, then stick with it. Dozens of products on shelves must mean they work for somebody.
   • Permed or relaxed. Any moisturizing shampoo will work for your hair type but apply it only to roots and rub it in well. Then apply a quick burst of water. While the water is running down the hair shaft, massage hair to remove any dirt and grime. Rinse well. You don’t want to skip the conditioner. Make sure to keep conditioner from the roots.

   Conditioners: Look for a rich conditioner to be used primarily on the ends of your hair. Avoid conditioners that contain silicone, since they tend to strip color.

   Extra tip for processed hair: Wash your hair only every few days to prevent drying out. You can use a dry shampoo or if you’re blond, a talcum powder, in between washings.

4. Dry, damaged hair Avoid clear shampoos and go straight for the creamy ones. These smooth, detangle and diffuse static.

   Conditioners: Again, moisturizing is key. You’ll want to look for an ultra-moisturizing conditioner.

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Maintaining Healthy Hair

You know you’ve got healthy hair when it’s shiny, smooth and full. Now, keeping it that way requires specific care that’s a mix of nutrition, protection and maintenance. Here are some of the basics:

Nutrition

To grow your best hair, you must be as healthy as possible. And all the standards of good health apply: a balanced diet, drinking water, getting enough rest and regular exercise are great places to start. That’s not to say that running three miles a day will give you gorgeous hair, but the better your overall health and nutrition, the better your hair condition can be.

Environmental protection

UV rays breakdown the keratin found in hair, and that can lead to dryness and breakage. Color -treated hair needs special protection, especially since the sun can cause color to fade. I encourage everyone, regardless of hair type, to wear a hat. It really is the best way to keep your hair and skin safe.

You’ll also want to protect your hair against the build-up of dirt and other impurities in the air—they settle on your hair’s surface, making it appear dull and even oily. But regular shampooing will take care of them.

Maintenance

Getting your hair trimmed regularly is one of the best ways to keep it healthy. Damage that starts at the ends—where hair is the oldest—can begin to creep up the hair’s shaft. So instead of just having damaged ends, you can end up with damage running the length of your hair. Trimming is the best way to prevent this from happening.

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* 70% of salon brand users agreed—their salon brand didn’t beat Pantene

** In a blind test, among females.Pantene Shampoo and Conditioner vs. their current shampoo and conditioner

Pantene is a brand of hair care products owned by Procter & Gamble.

The brand’s best-known product is the conditioning shampoo Pantene Pro-V. The brand name stands for Pantene Pro-Vitamin.

Liza Jaramillo was the first Pantene model for the product. In the late 1980’s, model/actress Kelly LeBrock starred in a series of Pantene print and television ads with the slogan, “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful.” As of 2005, Maria Menounos serves as spokeswoman on Pantene’s TV commercials. In the UK, Anna Friel has been appearing in adverts since May 2006. Natasha Bedingfield’s hit song Unwritten is used in Pantene Ads all over the world.

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